• Franklin Sewing Machine Serial Numbers
• Franklin Sewing Machine Serial Number Lookup
• Wilson Sewing Machine Serial Numbers

Agenoria Serial No. Made by The Franklin Sewing Machine Company, Franklin Works, Park Road, Birmingham. Following the dissolution of the partnership of Cole, Maxfield & Co., Park Road, Birmingham which had been formed by Richard Wood, Arthur Maxfield and Isaac Cole the Franklin Sewing Machine. I have a Admiral sewing machine manufactured by the Admiral Sewing Machine Co, serial no. 070645, labeled Deluxe 1952 model, Made in Japan. I have not been able to locate any information about this sewing machine. Any information such as value, etc would be much appreciated. 2/12/2016 3:28 PM. Agenoria Serial No. Made by The Franklin Sewing Machine Company, Franklin Works, Park Road, Birmingham. Following the dissolution of the partnership of Cole, Maxfield & Co., Park Road, Birmingham which had been formed by Richard Wood, Arthur Maxfield and Isaac Cole the Franklin Sewing Machine Co. Was established in March 1868 by Arthur Maxfield, Isaac Cole and Charles Fowkes. Home Series Serial Numbers Singer Sewing Machine Company Series Serial NumbersSinger Sewing Machine Serial Number Database. Singer Sewing Machine Serial Number Database When was my sewing machine made? What model do I have? Singer has recently pulled some of their dating and identification information from their website.

Resources, For These Sewing Machines

Links, lite bulbs, and commonalities. Here is information that applies to more than one machine, so it has been combined on this page and referred to as appropriate...

Sewing Machine Links | Sewing Machine Bulb Study | Sewing Machine Wiring | Japanese JA and JC Numbers | Sears: Models, Makers, & Years | Harp Sizes

Keeping it short and simple. These links are where you can buy parts for some of the machines on these pages. I've had good luck with these, but no link constitutes an endorsement, use at your own risk!

A fairly long page, scroll down to what you need. It has 'Rotary Motor Pulley #409' which will work on any of the friction drive machines on these pages, EXCEPT the Streamliner. Said 'pulley' is not tapered like that machine requires, although modification of #409 is possible. This page also has the standard 15287-A bobbin winder tire as used on Singers and others; bobbins and bobbin cases for the 117.959 Kenmore and others. Worth exploring.

Old Rotary Parts.

Need a manual? Many are available free on the web, including several right here. However, not all are, or you may want a nicely printed and bound copy. I can recommend https://www.tias.com/vintage-sewing/machines/manuals/. Linda, the proprietress is VERY knowledgable about old machines and she has manuals available for virtually everything - in both downloadable PDF and printed form.

Need other parts? This guy probably has them. He has an extensive listing of old machines he's parting out, email him with your needs. He's always been affordable, I've used him several times.

The belt for the Sewmatic is a #978 cogged V-belt formerly available from the new defunct Sew Classic dot Com. You'll have to use Google...

Need to pack a machine the RIGHT way to ship it? Refer to This (offsite) Page!

A great sewing machine blog: The Archaic and Arcane. Lots of repair and maintenance info & advice.

This guy shows how to sew various things, and does each project on a different machine: Thin Man Sewing.

This guy claims that his is the number one male sewing blog: Male Pattern Boldness.

Another vintage sewing machine blog: Steel Sewing.

More: Paul's Sewing Machines.

Needle info, a few manuals, and other miscellany: Kevin's Sewing Stuff.

I've made a couple of sewing machine bases, and repaired a few more, but this guy has it down to a science: How to Make a Custom Sewing Machine Case.

This started as a search for the ideal light bulb for Nationals; especially the Reversew Rex and the Streamliner, but evolved slightly as the White 690 as well as the Sewmatic Chainstitcher use these very common threaded base bulbs. Maybe your machine does too!

The Bulbs under discussion, from top:
15 Watt Nitelite/Christmas style
15 Watt equivalent LED 'Silicon Bulb'
15 Watt #643 bulb
15 Watt super skinny bulb from Feit Electric.

This is a picture of correct, no longer made, lite bulb as originally used in the
Reversew Rex and Streamliner.

And here is this same 'original' bulb compared with the Feit Electric product.

As arranged in the above picture, the largest is on top, graduating down to the smallest on the bottom. In general, any bulb can substitute for any of the bulb(s) above it in a size restricted area, such as the 'Rex' and Streamliner - but the reverse isn't true unless there is more space available, such as in the White 690 or Sewmatic Chainstitcher where ANY of these bulbs can be utilized.

In the case of the two Nationals in question, I had been using a standard #643 bulb, although it was a VERY tight fit, especially in the 'Rex'. In both machines, the glass envelope of the bulb was touching metal, and again in the case of the 'Rex', I had to screw it in place very carefully with a pair of needle nose pliers!

So when Randy discovered the ultra small/skinny Feit Electric 15 watt bulbs, they were a match made in heaven as they were actually smaller than the original! This bulb can be purchased at Home Depot, and is Feit Electric # BP15T4C/2 - I suspect the '/2' means two to a package. They are marketed as bulbs for picture lights and similar.

The Nitelite/Christmas style 15 watt bulb was probably the most common threaded bulb used in sewing machines from the 1930s forward, Nationals not withstanding. Machines with space for this bulb have the advantage of being able to use all the various smaller bulbs as well. Note that real Christmas lamps (or nite lite lamps) are only half the wattage (7½ vs. 15) of the identical looking type used in sewing machines. Some of this type are frosted, others clear.

I had been wanting an LED 'bulb' for my main machine, a 1976 White 690, almost since the day I got it. Unfortunately, candelabra based LED bulbs came in three types: Nitelite sized, which would of course fit the 690, but also nitelite brightness (or less); Plenty bright, but chandelier sized - too big; and one seller on eBay was selling what looked like a crude home-made lashup for $30+!

So when the above pictured LED bulb appeared on eBay for less than $10, I bought one. It seems well made, and is cast in crystal clear silicon rubber. Its almost as small as the Feit Electric incandescent, and fits fine in the Nationals being discussed here. Its supposedly 25% brighter than the incandescent - I will say it certainly appears brighter and certainly isn't any dimmer - and best of all it only uses somewhere around 2 watts or a bit less, so it isn't so darn HOT. In fact, you can hold it when its been on for hours. Who actually makes this particular bulb is unknown, no identifying marks found on the packaging.

What follows is a 'Bulb Study' I did, showing the #643, the Feit, and the LED bulb and how they fit and look in the two Nationals under consideration, and then a clear Christmas/Nitelite style and LED in the Sewmatic and White. All illumination comparisons taken under the same lighting conditions.

In the end, the LED now resides permanently in the White, the two Nationals have Feit bulbs, and the displaced #643s await re-use elsewhere and in the Sewmatic chainstitcher.

#643 in a Streamliner

And its illumination pattern.

The Feit in a Streamliner - plenty of room.

And its illumination pattern - same as the #643 as you'd expect.

The LED in a Streamliner - still enough room although its a bit long.

And its illumination pattern - Brighter and whiter.

#643 in a Reversew Rex faceplate

End-on view - glass to metal contact.

And its illumination pattern.

Feit in a Reversew Rex faceplate

End-on view - no glass to metal contact!

And its illumination pattern - same as the #643 as you'd expect.

LED in a Reversew Rex faceplate

End-on view - no glass to metal contact! No rubber to metal contact either!

And its illumination pattern - Brighter and whiter.

Moving on to the White 690 and the Sewmatic chainstitcher: As they both were engineered for use with a Christmas/nitelite bulb, no need to repeat for the #643 or Feit as they'd both fit with room to spare and the illumination patterns would be exactly the same.

Sewmatic chainstitcher with Christmas/nitelite style.

Its illumination pattern, nice and square.

Now the LED in the Sewmatic...

And a blaze of bright white lite!

Christmas/nitelite style in the White.

With its illumination pattern.

LED in its forever home in the White.

Also a blaze of bright white lite!

But What About...

The Expert B.T.?

The Micro-Bell?

Franklin Sewing Machine Serial Numbers

The Singer 99K?

The Singer 185K?

The Pfaff 776 Serger?

Yes, it is possible to place new LED bulbs in all of these - the Expert BT in particular also originally utilized the Christmas/nitelite style, and had the LED bulb pictured here been available 2 years ago, I would have used one instead of doing a fairly major project to retrofit an entire LED light fixture onto this machine! But since that has been done, it will remain until such time - if ever - that this fixture dies, then I can re-install the original fixture with a new LED bulb in it. Everything is reversible!

The Micro-Bell uses an odd looking bulb indeed - shaped like a Christmas/nitelite type, but a double contact bayonet style that has been reflectorized on one side. That machine, the Pfaff serger, as well as the 'SingerLight' on the 99K should be able to use a double contact LED bulb that the same eBay seller - and doubtlessly others as well - also sells.

The TZ-17 uses an E17 based bulb, rather than the E12, but said larger bulbs are readily available in LED form these days. There is a brief discussion on the TZ-17 page.

That leaves the 185K. An entire bulb study was done on it a couple of years ago, available on the 185k page, shows how a standard candelabra based bulb - which would now include our featured LED bulb - can be used with an adapter. However, even that oddball bulb seems to be available in an LED version now.

Sewing Machine WiringNOTE WELL: These drawings and associated information are provided 'as-is' and for reference ONLY. They are NOT guaranteed to be accurate, safe, foolproof, or anything else! In addition, there are other ways besides what's depicted here to wire a sewing machine. If you're not qualified, or not comfortable working with live AC voltages, find someone who is. VERIFY your machine's wiring before assuming anything about it. USE THESE DRAWINGS AND THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK!!

Below are diagrams for 4 common ways sewing machines are often found to be wired. These refer to 100 percent line voltage operated machines, the more modern machines using low voltage controls are beyond the scope of this page and are not covered here. In this context, 'Controller' can mean either a foot controller or a knee controller; and it can be a wire wound resistive type, a 'Carbon Pile' resistive type, or even a line voltage solid state style.

This is probably the most common wiring schema used on machines from the 1970s forward, as well as some older models. The 'optional' lite switch will be present in most cases, and the 'alternate switch wiring' will be seen on many newer machines, thus switching both the motor and the lite. My Pfaff 776 Serger is one such wired the latter version of this schema. The old Kenmore is an example of an older machine wired this way. DO NOTE: There may or may not be a pseudo-standard use of which pins are used for what - for that reason no pin numbers have been placed on the schematic! It will be necessary to ascertain how the pins are wired on the machine and match the external wiring accordingly!

Here is a link to a nicely done page showing 3 pin wiring with pin numbers for SINGERS. The diagram, while drawn differently, is the same as the one above, but having the pin numbers will help if you have a Singer. I still suggest verifying your machine against the provided pin numbers with an ohmmeter or visual tracing! LINK: Singer Wiring.

This alternate method of using a 3 pin connector has the advantage of not requiring a splice or 2 wires on one pin of the 3 pin connector. Instead the 2 conductor line cord goes directly to the foot pedal, and then a 3 conductor cord goes from the foot pedal to the machine. The Micro Bell is wired this way, and I rewired the SewMatic Chainstitcher to this schema as it resulted in a much cleaner wiring job. Any 3 pin system should be able to be wired this way if desired.DO NOTE: There may or may not be a pseudo-standard use of which pins are used for what - for that reason no pin numbers have been placed on the schematic! It will be necessary to ascertain how the pins are wired on the machine and match the external wiring accordingly!

Franklin Sewing Machine Serial Number Lookup

National Sewing Machine Company (NSMCo) used this schema as their wiring standard for their entire history. It is, in my opinion, the neatest and cleanest way to wire one. You will note the relative gender of the two connectors. The connector for the controller is duplicated on the wiring block and on a pigtail under the machine - your machine may have the wiring block (foot pedal) connector blocked off. Some Nationals had light switches, some did not. I have not seen the 'Alternate Switch Wiring' on a National, but have seen it alluded to in at least one NSMCo manual. Lastly, this is type typical wiring schema used by most Japanese machines from the 1950s through at least the mid-70s, as my 1976 White 690 is wired this way. This is also a very good way to wire a machine, I retrofitted my Singer 99K to this schema during that machine's restoration. All the complexity is hidden inside the pre-wired double receptacle wiring block; the machine's motor and lite plug into the appropriately marked receptacles, a 'mains plug' (as my British friends would call it) comes out one end of the block, and a wire pigtail that leads to the controller comes out the other end. The only caveat is if the motor and lite are plugged into the wrong receptacles, the motor will come on full blast but you'll have a light that varies intensity with the controller! I've never seen a machine wired this way that didn't have a light switch, the schema pretty much requires one. In fact, in the case of my White 690, there's a double pole switch that controls the motor as well. Japanese JA and JC numbers

This machine shows a JA number, a JC number, as well as a maker's sigil (Shansin in this case). Not
all Japanese machines show all of these, in fact, many show none at all! Photo contributed by Randy.

This reference has been 'kicking around' on the 'net in various places and in various forms. This version has been highly expanded and revised from the original. It was pieced together from a list found on the Japanese Sewing Machine Yahoo! group, as well as several other sources including considerable personal research and observation. For reference only, no accuracy is expressed or implied, but updates are welcomed!

Note: JA-39 was indicated being badged as Kenmore in the original list. I'm not buying it until I see further confirmation. I was able to confirm JA-39 as being Toyota OEM. To the best of anyone's knowledge, Toyota never manufactured Kenmore sewing machines for Sears (UPDATE: Toyota is known to have manufactured non-Kenmore machines for Sears for the Canadian market), only Janome, Maruzen/Jaguar, and Soryu among the Japanese makers did so. However, we now have several 'unknown' manufacturers for Kenmore as noted below, perhaps one of them actually is Toyota...

Nobody really knows exactly what these numbers mean, and it would probably take a native Japanese speaker to be able to visit the appropriate archives in Japan - if they still exist - to try to shed more light on the subject. However, I have observed:

• 'JA/JC' numbers seem to be quite rare on free arm machines, but comparatively few have been checked, and some may be inside.
• Very seldom seen on Singer 15 clones.
• 'JC' numbers are ALWAYS cast into the bottom of the bed - until they're not. See note ₄ in relation to JC-39.
• Not all Japanese machines have JA or JC numbers. Many have only one or the other or none. A given manufacturer may have used these numbers sporadically. Nobody knows the why or how of this...
• Any OEM listed has only been so after POSITIVE identification, otherwise a question mark is put by the OEM name. To date, the working assumption is that only one OEM used each JA or JC number - but that assumption could be disproven at any time.
• 'JA' numbers, also found under the bed, are either stamped into the metal, stamped into an under-bed badge (sometimes as a serial number prefix), or they're inked stamped.

Except when they're not! This appears to have changed by the time of the aluminum era. 'Kenmore' machines with 'JA-4' (Maruzen) cast into (instead of stamped) the bottom of their aluminum bed are known to exist. These machines also show a 'JC-4' cast right next to the 'JA-4'! 'JC-4' is a known Brother number. It is my current working theory, that 'JC' refers to the company that CAST the machine hull, 'JA' refers to the company that ASSEMBLED (designed?) the machine. This is PURE SPECULATION on my part.

In this case, it would appear to mean that Brother made the castings for Maruzen who then assembled the machines. Other (non-Kenmore) aluminum examples are known to exist with both JA and JC numbers cast in in a similar manner - including all Free-Arm machines observed with JA/JC numbers (as they're all Aluminum era machines).

Aluminum Kenmore 158.16012 with cast in 'JA' number in addition to the usual cast in 'JC'

Listed next to the JA or JC number is the OEM manufacturer, if known, then under the 'Badged as' heading are any known badgings the finished machine was sold under. JA/JC numbers are generally found in the form of 'J-Axx' or 'J-Cxx', but are listed here as 'JA-xx' and 'JC-xx' as that seems to be the accepted way to list them on the Internet. There are also very rarely seen 'JN' and 'HA' numbers, no-one seems to know what those mean other than 'HA-1' indicates a Japanese round bobbin straight stitch machine. Apparently not manufacturer specific. I've seen occasional other HA-xx numbers, including HA003 cast onto the bottom of a Morse badged straight stitch machine built by Toyota.

* From another list on a certain detestable website, unverified by Zorba

Sears Sewing Machine listing of Years Harp Sizes:

Machine	Year	Size Class	Pillar to Needle distance (Inches)
Singer VS2	1891	Full (4/4)	7-15/16
Wartheim Class 12	1900	Fullish (4/5)	6-1/2
Singer 127	1918	Full (4/4)	8.00
National Rotary 'D'	1935	3/4	5-3/4
Streamliner	1940s	Full (4/4)	7-3/4
Kenmore 117.959	1940s	Full+ (5/4)	7-1/16
Kenmore 158.16012zz	1970	Full (4/4)	7-3/8
White 690zz	1976	Full (4/4)	7.00
Reversew 'Rex'	1950s2	3/4	6-5/16
Reversew 'B'	1940s2	Full (4/4)	7-11/16
Expert B.T.	1940s3	3/4	6-5/16
Singer 99K	19571	3/4	6-1/4
Singer 185K	1960	3/4	6-1/4
Singer 15K	1929	Full (4/4)	6-7/8
Micro-Bell	1952	1/4	4-3/4
Sewmatic	1950	3/4	5-3/4
Toyota TZ-17zz	1950s	(Full) 4/4	7.00

'Year' is best guess for the particular example encountered.

Wilson Sewing Machine Serial Numbers

¹ Produced from 1911 until 1963.
² Produced from the 1930s until 1954.
³ Produced from 'the treadle age' until 1950.
^zz Zig Zag machine measured to leftmost needle position. The real surprise here is the Singer 127. It has a whopping needle to pillar distance of EIGHT inches, and the VS2 is only 1/16' shorter.

Pillar shape can influence these measurements as well since the measurement is taken right at the bed level. Most older machines curve in considerably as the pillar reaches the bed, causing a narrower measurement. Higher up, they're wider. On the other hand, most modern machines are perfectly straight up and down in this area!

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